A table in the middle of clattering service, the smell drifting out of the kitchen, the last clinks of finished plates — B'AŞK'A Bİ YER-AKSARAY KÖFTE KOKOREÇ SALONU in Merkez adds its own note to that restaurant hum. Early hours suit a quiet conversation; peak hours put you right in the middle of the noise. The mood shifts entirely depending on when you walk in.