A table in the middle of clattering service, the smell drifting out of the kitchen, the last clinks of finished plates — OYSA SOS DÖNER &SULU YEMEK& KAHVALTI &ÇORBA SALONU in Ortaköy adds its own note to that restaurant hum. Early hours suit a quiet conversation; peak hours put you right in the middle of the noise. The mood shifts entirely depending on when you walk in.